For each of these soaps, either start with a basic recipe like my grocery store soap recipe or create your own basic soap recipe. You can also use melt and pour soap base for these recipes just as easily. In either case, add in the additives and fragrances as per the particular recipe.
Great for scrubbing a day’s full of gardening off your hands.
- Once your melt and pour base is melted, or once your soap has reached trace, add 3-4 tsp. corn meal, poppy seeds, or ground walnut shells, for every pound of soap in your recipe. (Adjust to your own preference for scrubbiness)
- Stir well. Add a colorant if you like.
- Mold as you normally do.
- I like to scent my gardener’s soap with either lemongrass and rosemary essential oils, or a combination of lavender and tea tree essential oils...really anything citrus or botanical works great.
The addition of real coffee grounds battles cooking odors and scrubs greasy hands gently.
- If you are making cold process soap, substitute double strength coffee for your water in the lye-water solution. (Be sure you understand how to make a lye solution with liquids other than water. If using melt and pour base, omit the liquid coffee.
- Once your melt and pour base is melted, or once your soap has reached trace, add in 3-4 tsp. of the used coffee grounds for every pound of soap in your recipe.
- Add a coffee fragrance oil. I've also made it with a bit of patchouli and peppermint essential oil as well - a lovely combination.
Not just for the grease monkeys in your house - it uses pumice (remember Lava soap?) to clean the grimiest of hands.
- Once your melt and pour base is melted, or once your soap has reached trace, add in 3-4 tsp. of fine ground pumice for every pound of soap.
- For fragrances, I prefer masculine fragrances or "green" essential oils like fir needle, patchouli, or eucalyptus. There are lots of designer fragrance "dupes" that you can use in soaps too!
- Mold as you would normally mold.